December 27, 2010

BBA Challenge #37 and #38: Swedish Rye (Limpa) and Tuscan Bread

The end is in sight. I have two more weeks off and only five breads more to bake. And best of all, the last five breads are ones I am excited about baking: Vienna Bread, White Bread, Whole-Wheat Bread, and the two “extra” breads, Potato, Cheddar, and Chive Torpedoes, and Roasted Onion and Asiago Miche. All of these sound delicious, and it seems like forever since I have been excited about the BBA recipes I was baking. I think that’s part of the reason I have been taking so long to bake.

So back to the Swedish Rye and Tuscan breads, the last of the breads I was not too excited about making.

One of the things I have discovered in this challenge is that I am not a big fan of breads with molasses, and one of the things I already knew before going in was that I am not a big fan of licorice flavors. The Swedish Rye has both molasses and licorice flavors (anise and fennel), so I knew going in that I would probably not be a fan of this bread. As it turns out, the Swedish Rye is the only BBA bread I baked that I did not even taste. I gave it my mom (who is a fan of licorice flavors) and she brought it with her to my brother’s house for Christmas, where there were not many people besides herself who liked it, apparently. I remade the BBA Bagels for our snow day today, and my brother complained on Twitter that I should have sent some of those to his house instead of the Swedish Rye.

The Swedish Rye starts with boiling water, molasses, dried orange peel, ground anise, ground fennel, and ground cardamom. The good part about this recipe is I finally got to use my spice grinder to grind up the whole anise and fennel seeds. That was fun.

Molasses Mixture

After letting the mixture cool, you add some “barm” and rye flour, let it become foamy, and then refrigerate it overnight.

Mixed Starter

Mine was still kind of bubbly the next morning:

Risen Starter

Then you mix up the dough with the starter, flour, yeast, salt, brown sugar, and melted shortening, and you have to be careful not to knead it too long because of the rye flour.

Ready to Rise

I think I have mentioned before that I have been having problems getting my bread to rise because of my cold house. This time I had somewhere to go in the afternoon, so I was hoping to finish shaping and baking the bread before I left. But the bread just was not rising. I tried moving the bread into different locations in my kitchen, and in my living room, but no luck. I started to wonder if my yeast had expired or if I had accidentally killed the yeast by adding the melted shortening before it had cooled enough. Finally, I used my tried-and-true method of turning on the oven and putting the dough on top of it, right before I left. When I got back, the dough had finally doubled. I think it took six hours to get it to this point:

Risen Dough

I shaped it as one loaf. Another thing I have learned through this challenge is that I prefer one large two-pound loaf to two one-pound loaves. Also, look at my aggressive slashing! I am quite proud.

Slashed for the Second Rise

I put the pan on the oven while it was preheating for the second rise.

Ready to Bake

My mom was here to pick up the bread for the final photo, and she insisted that I put it on my pretty Christmas towel to make the photo nice. Unlike how I usually take photos, with the scenic backdrop of my dishwasher.

Done

As I said, my mom liked this bread but there were not many other fans. The licorice flavor was noticeable. My mom said she used it for toast, and then made ham sandwiches with it.

I was also not looking forward to Tuscan bread, since the defining attribute was that the bread contains no salt. I don’t particularly like salty foods, but I knew enough to know that bread without salt was not going to taste all that good. Peter Reinhart says that the Tuscans pair this bread with flavorful garlic and white bean soup, so I thought I would make that to go with it.

First, you make a flour paste with bread flour and boiling water. It looks kind of like mashed potatoes.

Flour Paste

The next day you make the dough with bread flour, yeast, olive oil, water, and the flour paste. But no salt!

I set it to rise on my oven, which is the only place dough will rise for me. I didn’t heat up the oven this time, but it still seemed to work. Maybe the pilot light is enough to make it warm.

Ready to Rise

It only took two hours to get to this point:

Risen

I shaped it into boules.

Ready for Second Rise

When they rose a second time, I slashed them and sprinkled them with flour:

Risen & Slashed

I had to bake them for the full 30 minutes to get to 200 degrees inside.

Done

Done

Crumb

These loaves looked so pretty, but as I anticipated, the taste was seriously lacking. I made Giada De Laurentiis’ Tuscan White Bean and Garlic Soup and used this bread instead of ciabatta to make the grilled olive oil toasts. I still really didn’t like them that much, until I sprinkled them with one of my impulse purchases from Penzey’s: Brady Street Sprinkle. With the olive oil and the Brady Street Sprinkle, there was enough flavor to overcome the lack of salt.

December 19, 2010

BBA Challenge #36: Stollen

So one thing that I didn’t think about when I decided to change the order of the Panettone is that the next bread after it in the list is Stollen — not just another fruit and nut bread, but also one that is almost the exact same recipe. After making the Panettone, I was not exactly excited to begin on the Stollen, and to make matters worse, the next two breads (Swedish Rye and Tuscan) I am also not too excited about. All of this is basically my excuse for not baking this bread earlier.

Stollen is a Christmas bread and I have three weeks off from work for the winter holidays. As I Tweeted earlier today, after the Stollen I only have seven more breads left in the BBA Challenge. One of my plans for the break is to finish the Challenge, so I planned to make the Stollen today.

First you make a starter by warming up milk and then whisking in flour and yeast. The first time I tried this, the results were not so good.

Failed Starter

I misread the Celsius temperature on my thermometer for Fahrenheit, so I let the milk get much too hot. Then when I tried to whisk in the flour, it clumped up, and the yeast just stuck to the outside. I thought this was not what it was supposed to look like, so I tried again.

Starter

This looks a little better. I was supposed to used whole milk, but I didn’t have any so I mixed 1% and half and half to get an approximate.

I also mixed the King Arthur flour fruit mix with Bacardi and orange/lemon oil. The BBA recipes have been, in my opinion, almost too full of add-ins so I only put one cup of fruit blend in and not the extra cup of golden raisins, and later I added only one ounce of almonds instead of two. That was because I only had one ounce of almonds left. I ran out of orange oil in the middle of the tablespoon, so I topped it off with lemon oil. I think those were all of the changes I made.

Fruit Mix

Last week I made a trip out to the Penzey’s store in Chestnut Hill. I had ordered from Penzey’s over the internet before, but hadn’t been to the store, even though I am lucky enough to live pretty close to one. One of the things I picked up was Indonesian Cinnamon, which is supposed to be a milder variety than the usual. I thought I should try it, since I am not a huge fan of strong cinnamon flavors.

Cinnamon

After an hour, the starter was very puffy:

Starter Risen

I mixed the dough, but once I added the the fruit and liquor, the dough needed a lot more flour:

Mixed

Kneading

I think I had to add almost an extra cup of flour to get the dough to be “tacky but not sticky.” Then I put it aside to rise.

Ready to Rise

I have been having a problem because I am keeping my house fairly cool in the winter, and my bread dough has not been rising well at all. After 45 minutes, I was not surprised to see not much difference in my dough.

Risen

I divided the dough in half, shaped them into batards, and curved them on the sheet pan.

Shaped

Shaped

I let them rise again for an hour and a half. For the last half hour, I put the sheet pan on top of the preheating oven to encourage more rising.

Risen

I baked them for twenty minutes, turned the pan, and baked them for another twenty minutes. They measured over 190 degrees when I checked them the first time.

Baked

I brushed them with oil while warm, and used a sieve to sprinkle confectioners sugar all over the loaves. I think the confectioners sugar topping went a long way towards giving the Stollen the edge over the Panettone in my book.

Sugared

Sugared

Sugared

I let them cool before cutting into them.

Sliced

As I have said before, I am not a fan of fruit and nut breads in general, but I did like this bread much better than the Panettone. I don’t think decreasing the amount of fruit and nuts added in had a negative impact on the bread, and the confectioners sugar really helped the deliciousness factor. Despite the fact that I put off making this bread, I ended up liking it more than I thought I would. It was also a plus that the recipe could be done all in one day, which is rare for the BBA breads. I give it three and a half stars.

August 24, 2010

BBA Challenge #34, 35 & 24: Pumpernickel Bread, Sunflower Seed Rye, and Panettone

I have finished the Sourdough section of Bread Baker’s Apprentice and I am heartily glad to be done. The last two in the section are Pumpernickel and Sunflower Seed Rye. I also went back and did Panettone, which I had skipped way back in December because I hadn’t turned my firm starter into a liquid “barm” yet.

The pumpernickel bread suffered from a problem I have run into before with this book: it was strangely sized. I followed the instructions and ended up with two one-pound loaves, but these seemed miserably undersized. I would have preferred to have one two-pound bread than two tiny ones.

Done

I don’t think I can blame all of my problems with this bread on the recipe, though. This is the first bread that I really tried to accommodate to my schedule, by keeping the starter and the dough refrigerated longer than it says in the recipe. And I don’t think it turned out so well.

Sliced

I didn’t really care for the taste of this bread, either, and I love Pumpernickel. So this was another disappointment from the Sourdough section.

Next up was Sunflower Seed Rye bread, which sounded promising. My problems with this bread was in shaping it. I don’t think I put enough of a hole in my couronne so the finished product ended up looking like a giant bagel.

Done

Done

The book recommends that you make the indentations with a dowel rod or thin rolling pin, neither of which I had. I just pressed into the dough with the blunt side of a butter knife, but that didn’t work out so well. I probably should have just slashed it with a lame.

Poor Attempts at a Crease

When I took the lid off of the pumpernickel flour soaker the next day (after leaving it out at room temperature as instructed), I thought, “Oh no. I am going to hate this bread,” because the soaker smelled unpleasantly sour and bitter. In the end, I thought the taste of the bread wasn’t that bad, however. It definitely wasn’t one of my very favorites, but compared to some of the other sourdoughs, it was pretty tasty.

I have commented many a time on my indifference towards fruit and nut breads, so going back to make Panettone was not something I was looking forward to, especially since this week I have its close cousin Stollen to make. I didn’t have golden raisins, so I used plain. For the candied fruit blend, I used King Arthur Flour’s Dried Fruit Blend (and I apologize for the bad lighting in this photo):

KAF Fruit Blend

For the flavorings, I used rum, lemon oil, and Fiori di Sicilia, and contrary to my sometime practice, I did add the almonds. This bread looked and smelled terrific.

Dough

I had a little problem when it came to shaping it. I wasn’t going to buy special panettone papers, since I don’t really like fruit and nut breads. But I didn’t have the sizes of pan that Peter Reinhart recommends otherwise. So I just used assorted shapes of smaller cake pans, and followed his muffin tin suggestion of filling them halfway. I didn’t even really shape them all that much, and they turned out fine, for the most part.

These are two 5-inch cake pans, two 4-inch cake pans, two 3-inch cake pans, and four “babycake” silicone molds.

In the Pans

In the Pans

I am hoping to give most of these away, so I wrapped them in foil and froze them before taking any photos. Luckily I left out some of the babycakes to photograph and eat.

One of the Little Ones

Crumb

To tell you the truth, these weren’t as sweet or as buttery as I was hoping they would be. I have never had panettone before, so maybe that is how they are supposed to be.

July 7, 2010

Pizza on the Grill

For our combination Fourth of July/Mike’s birthday party, we made pizza on the grill. I don’t have any photos of the occasion, which is really a shame, since I think at one point there was the population of a small town in our pool. It was a very hot day.

I got a lot of requests for this recipe, so I am posting it here even though I don’t have photographic evidence of the grilled pizza goodness. I pre-baked the pizza crusts, in the hope that they would finish quickly on the grill, since we had a lot of them to make. The crust is based on Peter Reinhart’s (my bread-making guru) Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough from his book American Pie, but I made some changes to the procedure. Here’s what I did:

5 cups bread flour (21.25 ounces) — you can substitute all-purpose
1 tbsp honey
3.5 tsp kosher salt — if you are using regular salt, make it 2 tsp
1 tsp instant yeast — if all you have is active dry, proof it for five minutes in one cup of the warm water, and add it with the wet ingedients
2 tbsp olive oil
1 3/4 to 2 c water, room temperature (14 – 16 ounces)

In a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. While stirring, gradually add the honey, olive oil, and water and stir together for approximately four minutes. Let it rest for five minutes, then mix again for 2 minutes. The dough should be soft and it should stick to the bottom of your mixer bowl, but not to the sides. If it doesn’t stick to the bottom, add some more water. If it is sticking too much, add a little more flour.

Scrape the dough into a dough rising bucket (or a plain bowl covered with plastic wrap) sprayed with spray oil. I made multiple batches. Some I left out on the counter for about half an hour before putting in the refrigerator. Some I put right in the refrigerator. It didn’t seem to matter in the end.

The next day, take the dough out of the refrigerator and let it warm up for about two hours. The dough should be about doubled at the end of that time. For the personal size pizza we had at the party, I cut and weighed out the dough into 6 ounce balls, which made pizzas approximately 8 inches in diameter. This recipe made about 6 6-ounce crusts. You could make them bigger to get larger pizzas.

Preheat your oven to as hot as it will go (mine goes to 500 degrees F). On parchment paper or a metal cookie sheet or pizza sheet, spread out a little olive oil. With olive oil on your hands, stretch your dough from the center out, then put it on the paper or pan and press it out to form a circle. The dough will snap back at first; let it sit for a few minutes and then come back to press it out further. I did a bunch of these all at the same time, pressing them in turn until I got them as thin as I wanted (about half an inch for a thin crust). If you like your pizza thicker, then just don’t press them out as much.

[An aside: I can never ever toss pizza or twirl it or use any other method than pressing without it ripping. I have no pizza tossing skills.]

When the oven is preheated and your dough is all stretched out, pop them into the oven for five minutes. I did mine one right after the other.

If you wanted to bake them at this point, or run them outside to the grill, you could top them and bake them another 5-7 minutes at the same oven temperature.

If you want to wait to make them, cool them on a rack until they are no longer warm. Wrap them in a plastic bag and leave them out at room temperature if you plan to bake them within the next day or so. If you are going to wait longer than that, I would freeze them by double-wrapping in plastic and popping them in the freezer. You can take them out on the day you want to make them. I had some that were frozen, and they defrosted pretty quickly, within a few hours.

For the party, we had tomato sauce, pesto, and garlic oil, along with shredded mozzarella and sliced fresh mozzarella, and tomatoes, and some of our guests brought along fresh basil and oregano, red peppers, and chicken for the non-vegetarians among us. Everyone made their own pizzas. We preheated the grill on a low-medium temperature and grilled four at a time for approximately 5-7 minutes, until the crust was browned on the edges and the cheese was melted. It was a lot easier than I expected, and we were able to get them all made in a fairly short amount of time. Best of all, we had leftover crusts for the next day! I think I still have some in my freezer, too.

Filed under: Food

June 16, 2010

BBA Challenge #33: Poilane-Style Miche

Oh, people. It has been a long, long time since I baked a bread for the BBA Challenge. I think the sourdough section is defeating me. You see, most of these breads take two days to make, and because you need to feed the sourdough the night before, it is effectively three days. And if I forget to feed my sourdough, then my whole schedule is thrown off. And as you can tell, I have frequently forgotten to feed my sourdough. Also, the last bread I baked (the Sourdough Rye) wasn’t that great, and I was not impressed with this one, either.

But I am getting ahead of myself. Poilane-Style Miche is the huge bread on the cover of my now very battered copy of The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. The day after I fed my sourdough, I made the starter.

First you sift some whole wheat flour. This recipe uses only sifted whole wheat flour.

Sifted Whole Wheat Flour for Starter

Wheat Bran

The recipe has you mix and knead everything by hand because of the amount of dough, but I did the starter in the stand mixer.

Mixed Starter

Then I put in my proofing bowl and waiting for the magic to happen.

Kneaded Starter

Starter Ready to Rise

My starter rose fine:

Risen Starter

And then I popped it into the refrigerator.

The next day, I sifted more flour. A lot more flour.

Sifted Whole Wheat Flour for Dough

Then I added salt, water, and my starter. There are not a lot of ingredients to this recipe.

Before Mixing
Appetizing, yes? It’s all right, you can say no.

As you might be able to tell from the photos, this was a lot of dough. I started mixing it with my dough whisk, but then gave up and just mixed it with my hands. Then I turned it out on to the counter and kneaded for fifteen long, long minutes. My hands were covered with dough, so there aren’t any photos of that part. Finally, I took its temperature and got a windowpane, and I was done.

Kneaded

Ready to Rise

I got a nice rise here, too. I think it took four hours both times, for the starter and the dough to rise.

Risen

Shaped
Shaped

Now I faced a problem. I have a round banetton, but I was pretty sure that there was too much dough for it. I don’t think it would have fit before it rose a second time. So I improvised.

Bowl
Plastic Chip Bowl from Target, $6.99

Proofing Bowl
Add a couche and poof! It’s a proofing bowl

Seam
My seams never stay together

After it rose again, I had a bowl full of dough.

Proofed

I flipped it out onto my pizza peel covered by a sheet of parchment.

Proofed and Flipped

I slashed it, but my slashing skills have clearly deteriorated.

Slashes

I thought it was interesting that although we were supposed to “prepare our oven for hearth baking,” we didn’t do the thirty second spritzes of water like usual.

I baked it twenty minutes, then turned it 180 degrees and took out the parchment. Then it baked for 30 more minutes, and the internal temperature was over 200 degrees.

Done

Done

Done

The slashed didn’t look so bad once it was baked. I thought these loaves looked very pretty, but I wasn’t so enamored of the taste. Like the Sourdough Rye, this a dense, heavy bread with an aggressive sour taste. I love sourdough, but I am starting to think I prefer white flour sourdoughs to the other flour varieties. Mike and I both agreed that this is the kind of bread that you could pair with some kind of deli meat to make an excellent sandwich. But this doesn’t help us vegetarians. Maybe egg salad?

Two more whole grain sourdoughs to go. If any meat-eaters out there would like to give them a shot, I am sure I will have plenty to give away.