June 16, 2010

BBA Challenge #33: Poilane-Style Miche

Oh, people. It has been a long, long time since I baked a bread for the BBA Challenge. I think the sourdough section is defeating me. You see, most of these breads take two days to make, and because you need to feed the sourdough the night before, it is effectively three days. And if I forget to feed my sourdough, then my whole schedule is thrown off. And as you can tell, I have frequently forgotten to feed my sourdough. Also, the last bread I baked (the Sourdough Rye) wasn’t that great, and I was not impressed with this one, either.

But I am getting ahead of myself. Poilane-Style Miche is the huge bread on the cover of my now very battered copy of The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. The day after I fed my sourdough, I made the starter.

First you sift some whole wheat flour. This recipe uses only sifted whole wheat flour.

Sifted Whole Wheat Flour for Starter

Wheat Bran

The recipe has you mix and knead everything by hand because of the amount of dough, but I did the starter in the stand mixer.

Mixed Starter

Then I put in my proofing bowl and waiting for the magic to happen.

Kneaded Starter

Starter Ready to Rise

My starter rose fine:

Risen Starter

And then I popped it into the refrigerator.

The next day, I sifted more flour. A lot more flour.

Sifted Whole Wheat Flour for Dough

Then I added salt, water, and my starter. There are not a lot of ingredients to this recipe.

Before Mixing
Appetizing, yes? It’s all right, you can say no.

As you might be able to tell from the photos, this was a lot of dough. I started mixing it with my dough whisk, but then gave up and just mixed it with my hands. Then I turned it out on to the counter and kneaded for fifteen long, long minutes. My hands were covered with dough, so there aren’t any photos of that part. Finally, I took its temperature and got a windowpane, and I was done.

Kneaded

Ready to Rise

I got a nice rise here, too. I think it took four hours both times, for the starter and the dough to rise.

Risen

Shaped
Shaped

Now I faced a problem. I have a round banetton, but I was pretty sure that there was too much dough for it. I don’t think it would have fit before it rose a second time. So I improvised.

Bowl
Plastic Chip Bowl from Target, $6.99

Proofing Bowl
Add a couche and poof! It’s a proofing bowl

Seam
My seams never stay together

After it rose again, I had a bowl full of dough.

Proofed

I flipped it out onto my pizza peel covered by a sheet of parchment.

Proofed and Flipped

I slashed it, but my slashing skills have clearly deteriorated.

Slashes

I thought it was interesting that although we were supposed to “prepare our oven for hearth baking,” we didn’t do the thirty second spritzes of water like usual.

I baked it twenty minutes, then turned it 180 degrees and took out the parchment. Then it baked for 30 more minutes, and the internal temperature was over 200 degrees.

Done

Done

Done

The slashed didn’t look so bad once it was baked. I thought these loaves looked very pretty, but I wasn’t so enamored of the taste. Like the Sourdough Rye, this a dense, heavy bread with an aggressive sour taste. I love sourdough, but I am starting to think I prefer white flour sourdoughs to the other flour varieties. Mike and I both agreed that this is the kind of bread that you could pair with some kind of deli meat to make an excellent sandwich. But this doesn’t help us vegetarians. Maybe egg salad?

Two more whole grain sourdoughs to go. If any meat-eaters out there would like to give them a shot, I am sure I will have plenty to give away.

April 1, 2010

BBA Challenge #32: 100% Sourdough Rye Bread

Sourdough rye! I confess, I didn’t know what to expect from this bread.

I made my firm rye starter out of my normal starter, with some added white rye flour and water. I had to special order the white rye flour and the pumpernickel flour from King Arthur Flour. I don’t know how people survived before the internet came along.

Rye Starter

I also made the soaker, which is just pumpernickel flour and water.

Rye Soaker

I fermented the starter for the full four hours, until it looked noticeably puffier:

Rye Starter Risen

The soaker, however, didn’t change at all, of course:

Rye Soaker Not Much Changed

Then I combined everything together to make the dough, and set it out to rise.

Ready to Rise

I came back after four hours, but this is what I saw:

Not Much Risen

Not much difference, is there? I let it keep rising for about two hours more, and I also moved it to a more sheltered spot in the kitchen.

Finally Risen

Much better.

I shaped it into two batards, which was kind of difficult. The dough didn’t feel much like wheat dough. There wasn’t the elasticity and flexibility there normally is. This dough felt more like clay than dough. I’m not sure if this is to blame, or if it is my inferior shaping skills, but my batards turned out very long and skinny, more like baguettes.

Shaped

So they turned out kind of small for sandwiches. The crumb looks nice, and the taste was…interesting.

Crumb!

They were very dense, and I didn’t exactly like them, but didn’t exactly not like them either. They weren’t my favorite, let me put it that way.

I ended up finding a good use for them. I cut them into cubes and baked them into croutons, which seems to make them more palatable. I don’t think I can recommend ordering special ingredients and going through the trouble of baking the bread for the sake of croutons, however. I don’t think I would make these again, although the recipe seemed to work well. I will give these 2.5 stars.

Filed under: Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge @ 1:54 pm

March 29, 2010

BBA Challenge #31: New York Deli Rye

People, can we discuss the intro to this bread? As a vegetarian, I was kind of grossed out by PR’s loving descriptions of his childhood deli sandwiches. I don’t think I needed to know that chicken fat can be used as a sandwich spread. Rob (who also grew up in Philly) remembers the Chuckwagon PR references on City Line Avenue, but I have never been to any of the three places he mentions.

I love rye bread, so I was looking forward to this one. I made the starter, and I definitely did not forget to add the onions.

Mixed

Risen

The next day, I combined the dry ingredients. I did not forget the caraway seeds, either.

Dry Ingredients

Then for the mixing and kneading:

Kneading

You are not supposed to knead rye bread for too long since it has a different kind of gluten than white bread does. However, this dough was wet, and I kept having to add more flour. I think the dough turned out stickier than I would have liked, but I was afraid to continue kneading it in order to add more flour. I popped it in my bucket to rise.

Ready to Rise

Risen

Which it did with no problems. I decided I wanted these to be sandwich loaves, partially because I was looking forward to having onion rye sandwiches, and partially because it would give my soft dough more structure.

Shaped

Risen

Done

I realize I don’t have a crumb shot! You can believe me when I say the inside was as yummy as the outside.

When I was growing up, a common party appetizer was a hollowed-out boule of rye or pumpernickel filled with an onion dip, and the scooped out middle was cut into squares of bread to dip. Eventually the entire bread bowl was torn apart and dipped, too. This is exactly what this bread tasted like. There was the sweetness of the onions, the tang of the rye and the caraway, and the sour of the sourdough all mixed together. We ate these slices by themselves, and the only problem I had with this bread is that I couldn’t come up with a sandwich that would complement the strong flavors. I think maybe PR is right that it would take roast beef or corned beef — or even chicken fat — to stand up to it. And as a vegetarian, I don’t have those options. I still have one and a half loaves of this in my freezer waiting for me to come up with a good use for it. I give this bread 4 stars.

Filed under: Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge @ 2:58 pm

March 24, 2010

BBA Challenge #30: Basic Sourdough Bread

I can’t believe I have finally made it to the Sourdough portion of the book. To tell you the truth, I was a little apprehensive, since I don’t have the best track record when it comes to sourdough.

I did not make my starter from scratch, since I already have a starter. I purchased some of the King Arthur Flour sourdough starter, and even the official KAF sourdough crock, many moons ago. But I did not get in the habit of baking with it regularly…or even feeding it regularly. Some time later, I got Rose Levy Beranbaum’s book The Bread Bible, and in it she describes how to turn a liquid starter to a stiff starter (and back again). I had been keeping my starter as a liquid starter, but the advantage of a stiff starter is that you don’t need to feed it as often. So I followed her directions and made my liquid starter a stiff starter.

And then I mostly forgot about it. But it continued to live on in the back of my refrigerator. Those people who say it is tough to spoil or kill a sourdough starter aren’t kidding.

Now, the Bread Baker’s Apprentice uses a liquid starter for the sourdough recipes, so I planned to turn my starter back to a liquid.

Here’s my stiff starter:

Old Stiff Starter

It doesn’t look too bad, right? Trust me, it has looked a lot worse.

I added flour and extra water to feed it and to get it to a liquid state, meaning approximately equal weights of flour and water.

Transition to Liquid Starter

Liquid Starter

I fed it a few times during the week, to help it get its strength back. Soon it was nice and bubbly.

Bubbly

Then I needed to use the liquid starter to make a stiff starter that would become my sourdough bread. So I took a stiff starter, made it a liquid starter…and then made that a stiff starter again. Does that make sense?

Mixing

New Stiff Starter

I accidentally left the stiff starter out way too long, and it got seriously puffy.

Risen Stiff Starter

The stiff starter then gets refrigerated overnight, and the next day, flour, water, and salt are added. That’s it.

Ready to Rise

I let the dough rise until it had doubled.

Risen

Then divided and shaped. I decided to make boules. One boule got the banneton and the couche.

Shaped

The other one had to make do with the dish towel and Pyrex bowl.

Shaped & Risen

These rose well, too. I don’t remember how long they took to rise at each of the stages (because, surprise, surprise, I baked them a few weeks ago), but I feel like they were at the high end of PR’s estimates. For this whole sourdough section, I have been taking the schedule easy and waiting to make sure the dough gets doubled, since I am depending on my wild yeast. I haven’t really been experimenting with the whole no-knead bread phenomenon, but the one thing I have learned from reading about it is that time can do the work for you. So I am trying to be patient and let my wild yeast do its work.

Shaped & Risen

I baked them with all the “hearth baking” rules observed. They turned out really tall and almost completely spherical, which I wasn’t expecting.

Sliced

Look at that slash! I am proud.

Slash

These loaves were delicious. I love sourdough bread. I don’t know if it’s the recipe in particular, or just that my sourdough has been dormant for so long, but they had a really nice tangy, sour flavor without it being too overpowering. The texture was good, too. If you have a starter already, the recipe really wasn’t that complicated. It certainly is a long way away from my earlier, sad attempt. I’m going to give these 4.5 stars.

Filed under: Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge @ 7:27 pm

February 21, 2010

BBA Challenge #29: Pugliese

Pugliese is another bread that I had never heard of before starting this challenge. For the week or so before I was scheduled to bake it, I made a serious effort to find durum flour in the local stores that might carry it, but no luck. Mike would ask me why exactly we had to stop at that particular natural foods store, and I would hiss at him, “Because I need extra fancy durum flour.” I don’t think he knew what I was talking about half of the time.

In the end, I ended up using the semolina I had in the freezer from an earlier King Arthur Flour order. In the notes, Peter Reinhart says you can use it as up to one-third of the 10 ounces of flour, so I used three ounces of semolina and seven ounces of KAF bread flour.

I started by making the biga, and I cut the recipe like I have been doing by one-third, so it only made 12 ounces. Then I measured out the 10.8 ounces I needed and discarded the rest. I didn’t add any mashed potatoes either, since I didn’t have any this week any more than I had them the week before. I don’t think I have made mashed potatoes since Thanksgiving.

Since PR says that the wetter the dough is, the better the bread will be, so I also added the upper limit of 9 ounces of water. But I didn’t get any pictures of this. The first photo I have is after the first ciabatta-esque stretch and fold:

Folded

After the third stretch and fold, I put it in a bowl to rise:

Ready to Rise

I improvised two proofing bowls. One was an actual banneton, covered with a couche. One was a Pyrex mixing bowl with the smooth side of a dishcloth facing up.

Couches

My dough rose wonderfully:

Risen

I divided them with the help of my scale, and made two little boules:

Shaped

PR specifies that you should put the boules in seam-side up, and pinch the seam closed if it opens. I did that several times, but it would not stay at all. It reminded me of pinching together the ends of my challah bread, which would not stay closed either.

Unpinched

Although it was easy to get the boules out of the bowl by just flipping it over.

Flipped Over

I slashed them. I am really proud of the way my slashing has improved.

Slashed

And then I baked them.

Done

Sliced

I liked this bread a lot. Probably because I used the semolina flour, it reminded me of the Pane Siciliano, which I also liked. You can see from the photo that I didn’t get a very open crumb with this bread, despite the wetter dough and the stretches and folds. So I am not sure that this bread really distinguished itself from the Pane Siciliano for me. Maybe the extra fancy durum flour would have made it more distinctive. In any case, it gets a solid four stars.